There are few destinations left where, upon arrival, we feel like we are immediately transported back in time, to a rich, tangled wilderness worthy of Tarzan himself.
One place that has endured the transition to the digital age but retains the feeling of wild Africa is the Mahale Mountains in western Tanzania. Here, the remote yet unparalleled Greystoke Camp is nestled into thick forest where it meets sandy beach along the shore of Africa’s longest and deepest lake, Tanganyika.
Greystoke Camp
A room with a view
Here we spend our time walking in the lush and beautiful forest of the foothills, up close and personal with our relatives, the chimpanzees. These chimps have been studied for more than fifty years, and we gain stunning insights into the lives and loves – as well as political dynamics – of these fascinating creatures. The local guides really bring it all to life for us with their energetic explanations and personal histories of individual chimps.
Meeting the locals
Walking along the river with the chimps
Looks like a place Tarzan could have called home
We also thoroughly enjoy our time on and in the lake itself. We paddle in kayaks, fish for native species of cichlids, and just cool off in the heat of the day.
We even get to know Big Bird, the orphaned pelican who has made himself a regular fixture around camp and particularly enjoys the afternoon boat rides on the lake.
Cruising the lake via wooden vessel offers views of hippos submerged beneath us in the clear waters, lots of fun diving contests off the top deck, and plenty of opportunities for sundowners ….with Big Bird participating in everything!
Cruising Lake Tanganyika
Hippos swimming under the boat
Paddling with Big Bird
Time for a swim and a sundowner!
Mahale after dark
Big Bird is famous on YouTube! You can see his GoPro video if you click here.
I take my guests to Murchison Falls National Park whenever I get the chance. Although this place in northwestern Uganda is not on many peoples’ radar, I find that a day on the Nile here is unlike any other day on safari.
We stay in a private mobile camp along a stretch of the Nile just upstream of Lake Albert, and below Murchison Falls – treacherous rapids and twin waterfalls of some 40 meters in height.
Murchison Falls
Our camp along the Nile
An early morning game drive on the north bank of the river can be spectacular. The park is a golden and green savanna full of honey-colored kob and oribi, dotted with buffalo, giraffe, ground hornbills, and patas monkeys. There are several prides of lions here, and leopards are often seen resting in the tree branches.
Murchison Falls National Park
Uganda kob
Ground hornbill
We spend the rest of the day on the water. Our boats are perfect for both fishing and cruising, as well as for getting close to the bottom of the falls. In the midday heat, we enjoy the river’s cool breeze as the wildlife come down to drink. We catch baitfish hiding along the water’s edge, and then put out serious lines with the hopes of catching a big Nile perch! We even fish at the bottom of the falls, and disembark for a hike up to the top to get a feeling for just how mighty the Nile really is.
Cruising the Albertine Nile
Colobus monkeys
Elephants along the edge of the Nile
A lone giraffe coming down for a drink
The bottom of Murchison Falls
Fishing for Nile perch at the bottom of Murchison Falls
Ollie with a nice catfish
Hauling in the Nile perch
Ollie with the 15kg (33 lb) Nile perch!
Solomon and Halina at the top of the falls – the first trip to Uganda for both of them!
Being on such big water means that the birding is exceptional here. Thousands of cormorants commute to the nearby lake each morning, kingfishers dive for food next to the boat, egrets pluck bugs from the backs of elephants as they graze on papyrus, and bee eaters feed their chicks nestled in holes in cliff banks. Drifting by these scenes closely, in silence, is incredibly relaxing.
Madagascar bee eaters
The giant kingfisher
A very relaxed croc!
We also have a very special viewing of one of nature’s most interesting species – the shoebill. On most birders’ bucket list of sightings, this huge bird can reach almost five feet in height and has the world’s largest bill. We were able to get quite close to one of these prehistoric-looking creatures, and even saw him successfully catch a fish!
The shoebill is hunting…
…he strikes…
…and he gets a fish!
We return to camp at dusk to enjoy drinks by the fire on the riverbank, followed by dinner in the open mess tent. We fall asleep surrounded by the sounds of the river’s nightlife, a unique chorus of hippos and frogs.
The end of the day
