One of the wonderful things about planning a private mobile camping safari is that we get to position ourselves right amongst the action in the Mara. Whether our setting is amidst some particularly social lions, or adjacent to the best viewing spot for the wildebeest as they begin their inexorable streaming across the mighty Mara River, choosing our particular campsite based on the current conditions allows us to be immersed in the wildlife wonders my guests have come to see.

It’s hard to know what to leave out, so here’s the best of the past couple of months in the Mara:

*Finding a pair of mating leopards – two days in a row!

*Being out at first light to witness ten thousand wildebeest, and a good number of zebra, take a dawn plunge into the danger-filled river. This only got better when we had lions, leopard and a hyena all ambushing the exhausted animals as they emerged on our side. 

*An entire clan of spotted hyenas feasting on a hippo they’d killed. This was so close to camp that we were able to revisit daily and see the incredible speed which these predators devour their prey, even 3,000 kgs of hippo!

*Driving on and on through an endless ocean of wildebeest, themselves lost within the great savannah grassland.

*A 45 minute battle between a monstrous Nile crocodile and a crossing wildebeest, who finally broke free from the croc as darkness fell, only to face the perils of the night time carnivores.

Sometimes it seems that all the odds are stacked against the gnus (wildebeests). However, their sheer numbers tells us they’re doing something right, as over a million of them trample through these great plains that feed them. For it is only a fraction of the million or so that get eaten each year, and they manage to breed successfully in what is regarded as one of the most dazzlingly synchronized reproductive systems of any large mammal. Several hundred thousand baby gnus are born within a few weeks of one another and by flooding the market with their calves, they ensure most make it through. 

Thanks to Matthew Savitt for these wonderful images taken on safari with me last month.

There is simply no place better than the Maasai Mara when it comes to wildlife observations and photography. After all of my years on safari across the African continent, nothing beats a sunrise game drive here. The thrill of lions and hyenas fighting over a kill right next to the car, the tenderness of a cheetah mum grooming the morning dew from her cubs’ fur, or the peaceful sounds of chewing and tummy grumbles as elephants graze along the grassy tracks. The chorus of birdlife provides the idyllic backdrop for all of this as well as the giraffe, zebra, eland, and gazelles that are so often in view. The Mara is a year-round paradise, with something always happening. While the annual wildebeest migration is a highlight between June and October, the carnivores are all here year-round and there are thousands and thousands of resident animals to enjoy.

I think one of the benefits of traveling on safari with me is the ability to quickly get in sync with daily rituals that most suit your interests. While I can use my experience and offer recommendations, everything is still tailored around you. Working together, from the initial planning stage to actually being out on safari, we have the most fulfilling days and get the best results, whether you want ideal photographic opportunities or just feel like relaxing amidst it all. Regardless, we always feel like we need more time in the Mara, to soak it all up and then to share our experiences back in camp by the fire each night.

We recently took a break from our northern Mara home and spent a little bit of time down in the Masai Mara National Reserve, right on the border with Tanzania. We were fortunate to take over the Ker & Downey seasonal camp with a few friends for three days, and the location couldn’t have been better. We had wildebeest and zebra crossing the Sand River in and near camp, lions roaring nearby each night, newborn topi babies learning how to run, and spectacular sunsets.

It has certainly been strange for me to not be out on safari with my guests in June, July, and August for the first time in more than 20 years. But I have loved being able to spend so much time with the kids both at home and on a few little family safaris here in Kenya. Hopefully we will be back out there next year. Until then, enjoy a few highlights from the Mara: