We do not typically go on safari in the Masai Mara in May. It is often raining, the black cotton mud is horrible, the grass can be six feet tall, and the migration is still in the Serengeti. But this year we made a trip to fisi camp, and we are very glad we did!

Stephanie first spent a few days teaching the fundamentals of science writing to students participating in the Michigan State University study abroad course Behavioral Ecology of African Mammals and to a couple of the research assistants at The Mara Hyena Project, where she did the field work for her PhD. Fisi is the Swahili word for hyena, and we were lucky to spend some quality time with the Talek hyenas at their den and on a fresh kill. Steph even saw an old friend – Yogurt, daughter of Moonpie! Yogurt was the last cub born in the clan before Steph finished her field work in 2002, and the last cub she named. The Talek clan is now the largest it has been since research on these hyenas began in 1988, and we are looking forward to catching up with the hyena researchers to get the latest news this safari season.

We were amazed by how many wildebeest and zebra were there -unusual for this time of year. It turns out that the smaller, local “Loita” migration was already in the reserve. The larger migration from the Serengeti has also just started crossing into Kenya, making it an early year for the migration – and a fantastic time to be on safari! Of course, for the kids ANYTIME is a great time to be on safari….

Howard’s car amongst the Loita migration of wildebeest.

The next generation!

Lamu feeds on a freshly killed gnu….while the lower ranking members of the Talek clan wait for some scraps.

You can see just how strong a spotted hyena is when it carries a carcass with ease.

A young adult lioness of the Fig Tree pride, who was hiding a large cub in the grass of Horseshoe Lugga

An incredible group of ostriches.

Lots of fun on safari in the Mara – where Howard and Steph first met 14 years ago!

The Mara is one of our kids’ favorite places!

A sunset picnic dinner.

Another incredible Mara sunset.

Classic Amboseli.

The kids and I spent part of the Easter holiday on a “play” safari in the Amboseli area. The rains arrived just as we did, and although the resultant mud meant we couldn’t get to our favorite site at Soit Nado, we did get to enjoy an incredible number of chameleons! We spent some time with the eles and tracked lions with Mtito before we visited Ol Donyo lodge in the Chyulu Hills. And the big highlight of the trip was a very colorful Maasai wedding near the Namanga airstrip, where we celebrated the marriage of our watchman and dog handler, Patrick! We felt very privileged to be invited to this event and it capped a great family safari. We are already looking forward to the safari season, and we will be back in Amboseli next month.

We found a lot of chameleons!

Halina holds a chameleon on the road to Amboseli.

This chameleon had amazing colors on display.

A few of Amboseli’s famous eles.

We enjoyed hanging out with these guys.

Ollie helps Mtito the Lion Guardian track lions.

Baby goats were at the wedding.

The kids with Patrick on his wedding day.

The kids got to know an orphaned tommie pretty well.

Time for a pony ride in the Chyulus!

A picnic dinner in the Chyulu Hills.

And another sunset in one of our favorite places in the world.

Elephants near Amboseli National Park, Kenya.

Two of Stephanie’s stories have recently been published, and both are about conservation issues in the Amboseli area. In February, “Can Mock Hunts Save Lions’ Lives,” about a unique method being used by the Lion Guardians program, appeared in Ensia magazine. You can read it here.

Earlier this month, Steph’s story about Nick Brandt’s art and the creation of the Big Life Foundation was published in a new Scandinavian magazine called The Collection. It is not yet available online, but you can access the pdf here: Hope for Big Life in East Africa

I am proud to work with both of these organizations through my position at the Kenya Wildlife Trust, and I hope you enjoy reading about some of the conservation solutions in action in one of our favorite safari destinations.

On our last full day in the Masai Mara this season, we stumbled upon the aftermath of what must have been a mighty battle between male lions. Lying battered and forlorn on the open plain was the defeated intruder, who had recently ventured into the territory of the two impressive males who dominate the part of the Mara Triangle that includes our favorite campsite.

As we pulled up to the scene, one of the resident males, huge with a blond mohawk, softly roared as he sauntered past the loser, who could barely move his front legs or even lift his head under the weigh of his blood-soaked, rumpled mane. He had suffered at least one wicked bite to the top of his head. We weren’t convinced he would even be able to make it to the shade and water just 150 meters away.

Meanwhile, over the slight rise to the northwest, the dark-maned victor – the other resident male – was now enjoying a honeymoon with one of his pride females, and he looked none the worse for wear with but a few scratches on his flanks, chest, and shoulders. He appeared truly regal in the Mara light. We may have missed the actual battle, but it was clear what had happened – we were witnessing for ourselves some of the drama recently brought to life on the pages of National Geographic by David Quammen and Michael Nichols. (Read “The Short Happy Life of a Sergengeti Lion” here)

The next morning, while reveling in our last Mara sunrise for perhaps a couple of months, we set out to find the wounded male, to see if he made it through the night. We searched the bushes lining the small stream closest to where the fight had occurred, our eyes focused downward. Solomon casually told me to stop the car. We assumed he had seen the lion, but he had actually spotted a leopard in a tree right next to us. Luckily Solomon was also looking up!

We watched the little female for at least 15 minutes in the dawn light and were actually puzzled by her reluctance to hop down the tree trunk to go out of sight. She instead moved like a chameleon and attempted to go higher into the dense foliage of the tree. Solomon enlightened us again: he spotted the injured lion in a thicket just below the leopard tree. Eventually the leopard decided the lion was not a threat, slinked down the tree, and silently disappeared upstream. We left the lion in peace hoping he would live to fight another day, but we were informed by the rangers of the Mara conservancy that he succumbed to his injuries later that day.

Watching this drama unfold reminded us of what a special place the Masai Mara continues to be. Being tucked away in our own camp in a private corner of the reserve, we were fortunate to experience – on our own – the quintessential purity of  ‘nature red in tooth and claw’, and that feeling of true wilderness that is getting harder and harder to find.

The king came away with just a few scratches

The defeated intruder under the weight of his injuries

The king mating with a pride female

The leopard went up high in the tree

She finally came down

The king’s right-hand man

The king of the Mara

Stephanie collects data on lion numbers in the Masai Mara in 2005.

Stephanie is one of more than 50 authors of a scientific paper on lion conservation that is published today in the journal Ecology Letters. “Conserving large carnivores: dollars and fence,” includes lion count data from more than 40 sites across Africa and analyses to test what management options will work best to conserve lions. Stephanie has also written a guest blog post about the paper for Scientific American, “From whisker spots to paradigm shifts: how to save the lions.” Have a look and let us know what you think. I’ll certainly be discussing the issues raised in the paper this week as I guide my guests on a safari through Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater, and the Serengeti – hopefully while we are enjoying observing some of the lions that were counted for the paper!

On the Laragai front porch

During a mobile camping safari, we stay at select permanent camps and lodges while our own camp moves from one wildlife area to the next. We have a very short list of properties that we consider to be the best, and we visit them often: we know the managers, local guides, and wildlife well, and our guests are guaranteed a special experience during their stay.

One of our favorites over the past few years has been Laragai House on the Borana Conservancy. We have loved observing elephants at very close range as they drink from a small water hole next to the front porch, as well as when they swim in the dam below the house – viewable from the breakfast table.

The lodging is exquisite and exclusive: whenever we stay at Laragai we take over the entire house. Visit their website here to see what the interiors are like. While we certainly spend a lot of time relaxing by the two gigantic fireplaces in the central room, we also always enjoy horseback riding, swimming, game drives, and picnics during our stay. Tennis, a visit to the owners’ farm, and a helicopter flight to fish on a Mt. Kenya lake are also often on the itinerary.

We have had excellent viewings of wild dogs and leopards, and spend a considerable amount of time with the elephants. We also track lions here: Borana is home to a huge pride monitored by the Living with Lions team. We were also excited to recently hear that the fence between Lewa Downs and Borana may soon be taken down, in order to allow movement of rhinos throughout both conservancies. With more than 600 rhinos illegally killed for their horns in 2012, rhinos need all the help they can get, and we are happy to support Borana with their efforts by staying at Laragai often.

Riding Borana

The pool at Laragai

The Borana pride of lions

Picnic dinner near the big dam

During December we spent time on safari in both Shaba and Buffalo Springs National Reserves. Located in northern Kenya along the Ewaso Ngiro River, green and full of wild flowers from recent rains and flooding, the parks can only be described as exquisite gems right now. The river is the lifeblood of this part of Samburuland, and the namesake of the area’s lion research and conservation project: the innovative, non-profit Ewaso Lions, piloted by Shivani Bhalla and Paul Thomson. We were fortunate to have Shivani and Paul over for lunch in camp one day – and to have their help finding the pride of nine lions currently inhabiting Buffalo Springs! The lions are doing well inside the protected areas, but threats to the population continue to be present on the edges and out in the community lands.

We help support Ewaso Lions and their efforts to address the threats to the lion population’s success through the Kenya Wildlife Trust. Visit the KWT website here to learn more about how you can join us in supporting the project. You can also visit the Ewaso Lions website directly here or get their latest field report here.

Here are some photos from Shaba:

The Ewaso Ngiro River in Shaba National Reserve, Kenya

Picnic breakfast by the river

2012 family portrait on Shaba termite mound

Vulturine guineafowl

The endangered Grevy’s zebra – found only in Kenya and Ethiopia

The Ngararambuni Nursery School.

The Ngararambuni Nursery School barely appears out of the thick grey volcanic dust of Mt Kilimanjaro, less than 10 miles southwest of Amboseli National Park. If you didn’t already know it was there, you would easily drive by and miss it. Yet as we get closer, we can see dozens of Maasai children aged 2-10 sitting quietly on five crooked wooden benches placed under the scant shade of a single acacia tree, all of them sort of enclosed by a low ramshackle boma (bush fence). The children watch us drive up and tumble out of our Land cruisers. We wander into the boma and join everyone under the tree, are introduced to Joyce, the head teacher, and then the quiet ends  as we are engulfed in song….

The only nursery school for miles, Ngararambuni is supported entirely by safari guests. Here, the local children learn Swahili and English, basic math, and some geography – instead of spending all of their days herding livestock. Joyce runs a very tight ship, and their time at Ngararambuni prepares the children for primary school. Although the school is minimalist in many ways, it is a true grass-roots community project, and provides what is needed for young learners facing a rapidly changing world at their doorstep.

Through Ker & Downey and The Kenya Wildlife Trust, safari profits pay for the teachers’ salaries, food, books and learning materials, and basic infrastructure and repairs. We also visit the school whenever Amboseli is on the safari itinerary. Our guests are always smitten with the show that the kids put on for us, and nobody can resist joining in the singing, dancing, and footballing.

Ngararambuni is a very special place for us and many of our guests, as Ker & Downey guides have had a relationship with the local community for over 40 years. For us it is even more personal, as this is where Solomon ole Lenkaja – our spotter and Maasai liaison – is from. Solomon was actually a teacher at the school before he came to work with us, and several of his own children now attend Ngararambuni. A respected elder in the community, Solomon is instrumental in reinforcing the connections between safari tourism, wildlife conservation, cultural traditions, and education in the area.

During our stay in the area, the nursery school is just one stop during a full day of Maasai culture and activities. We often visit the new Embaragoi Primary School (also assisted by K&D and KWT), and several of our recent guests have organized significant donations of books, games, and sports equipment to the schools. We spend time at Solomon’s house, and meet his extended family and learn all about the traditional Maasai way of life. In the afternoon, the community descends on our camp for the “Maasai Olympics,” which includes spear and club throwing competitions, tug-of-war, and running races – after everyone dons their war paint, of course! We finish the day with drinks and traditional dancing on top of the hill next to camp, and see if any of our guests can jump higher than a Maasai warrior in the shadow of Kilimanjaro.

For many of our guests this day is the most meaningful of their safari: we are looking forward to sharing this experience with a new family on Christmas Eve!

-Nairobi, Kenya.     Stephanie has embarked on her new science writing career with a story on Nairobi’s suburban lions, four of which were captured on our property! You can read it here.

– Amboseli, Kenya.

We are thrilled to share some good news – the arrival of 6 new lion cubs to the Kitirua Conservancy! We found these little guys and four lionesses hanging out near the Kitirua Hill on the border of Amboseli National Park. About 2 months old, and probably from two litters, these cubs represent the next generation of lions in the area. Their pride territory includes part of the park, the conservancy, and additional bits of the Maasai group ranches. According to our friends at Lion Guardians, who are monitoring the lions in the ecosystem, there has been quite a cub boom over the last 6 months. If most of the cubs survive to adulthood we could see a doubling of the lion population over the next two to three years!

Unfortunately, two of the lionesses in this pride have been killing livestock recently, and retaliation by the local Maasai community is a big threat to the survival of not just the cubs but the pride as a whole. We are very grateful to Lion Guardians for keeping track of the conflicts and lions in the area, and are supporting their efforts to conserve the lions and minimize conflict. Our guests have been fortunate to spend quite a bit of time with our local Lion Guardian, Metito, and Steph will soon write about a morning she and the kids spent with Metito, 4 lions, and 13 hyenas!

We will post updates when we see the cubs again, hopefully on our next visit to the area in September.