My son, Ollie has stepped up to some exciting opportunities this year alongside his junior guiding work. This season he spent a night on patrol with rangers from Big Life Foundation, gaining a first-hand insight into the daily challenges and rewards of wildlife conservation. Here is what he had to say about the experience upon an interview:

“What struck you most about the work being done by the rangers?”

Ollie – “How passionate the Rangers were about their work. It all takes place out in the African bush where most of them grew up, so seeing their familiarity with that environment was amazing. And as the rangers do this all the time, they are a close-knit squad; with strong camaraderie amongst them. 

I was so impressed with their outdoor knowledge, their bush skills from having grown up in the wild, like differentiating between even the smaller marks left by rhino v elephant. They really know their job, the core part of which is looking for any signs of rhino activity, even when the signs are subtle and hard to see to the untrained eye. My walk covered rough country over an old lava flow, with plenty of acacia thorn, and this is typical of the challenging terrain the Rangers cover every day.”

“Why do you reckon the work done by these rangers is so valuable?“

Ollie – “The habitat these endangered rhino live in is only accessible by foot, and only these rangers have the ability to get in and track close to the rhinos. Many hours walking through the lava rock and acacia thickets to get status reports on takes many hours of tough tracking. This is so important because the Chyulu Hills offers a sanctuary to the rhinos, who as a large herbivore are a key species within that ecosystem.”

“By protecting rhinos, what are the other benefits to wildlife in the area?“

Ollie – “Having rangers out in the field means locating and deterring poachers who otherwise would be after everything from scrub hares for bushmeat, to elephants for their ivory. The Rangers check their trail-cams and search for other man-made tracks throughout the Conservancy; while all the time gathering information on other animals especially endangered ones like lion and elephant.”

 “What are the main challenges and rewards for people living in this region?“

 Ollie – “Most Rangers here are from the local area, which shows communities nearby that their knowledge of the environment is of value. This level of employment offers benefits to the Ranger’s families in an area where Conservation and Tourism are an increasing meaningful career prospects.

If any of you have met my son Ollie, you will know his passion and incredible ability to find chameleons, and here is one called the flap necked chameleon he found whilst on patrol.

Nestled next to the famous Amboseli National Park, Kitirua Conservancy offers a unique and intimate opportunity to experience wildlife in one of Kenya’s most breathtaking landscapes.

Tracking animals on foot is an art that requires patience, keen observation, and respect for the animals you are pursuing. In Kitirua, the land is alive with signs left by its wild inhabitants. Whether it’s the fresh prints of a lion patrolling through the dusty gametrails, or listening for the warning calls from Guinea fowl, each clue tells a unique story.

Every footprint, broken branch, or disturbed patch of earth offers a fragment of the animal’s journey. Working with the Maasai, who have generations of deep cultural connections to the land and its wildlife, really enhances our tracking experience. Their remarkable ability to read the subtle signs in the environment bring a rich understanding of both the ecology and the spirit of the land.

The slow, deliberate pace of a walking safari allows you to engage all of your senses. Each step, noise and scent brings you closer to the animals you seek. We have worked hard to secure these wild spaces that allow us to become more active, and for all our guests, especially kids, to become immersed in this age old practice of tracking the game.

Conservation at the Heart of Tracking

Walking allows visitors to better appreciate the challenges facing the region’s wildlife. From human-wildlife conflict to the pressures of human development, the experience of moving through the conservancy on foot makes these issues feel more immediate and tangible. As this close connection builds with the land, the animals, and the people, guests more fully appreciate the value these natural resources bring.

I’ve always found that walking offers an unparalleled adventure into the wild. It’s an experience that immerses you in the natural world, allowing you to connect with both the land and its wildlife on a deeper level. The adventure is about more than just seeing animals – it’s about understanding their behaviors, their environment, and the challenges they face – everything from the daily search for water, to avoiding becoming someone’s dinner!

If you’re lucky enough to experience a horseback safari in the wild, the journey is bound to be filled with unexpected moments and novel sightings. But for us, our ride with ‘Horses in the Wild’ took an entertaining twist, thanks to the unlikely duo of a zebra and a donkey—Dazzle and Mandazi. 

Mandazi, with his long ears and quirky expressions, believed herself to be a zebra, and Dazzle was more than happy to have her donkey companion by her side. As we set off for our ride, we quickly realized that these two were not just entertaining to watch; they were part of the experience itself.

The Wild Stallion Zebra Drama

The ride took a fun and fascinating turn when we entered an open plain. A stallion zebra appeared out from the wild herd and immediately, he was intrigued. He was intent on getting closer—perhaps to court her, perhaps to show off his dominance.

Here’s where the comedy began. Mandazi, ever the protective best friend, wasn’t about to let any wild stallion get close to her zebra companion. He immediately chased the stallion away, braying and kicking up dust in her own donkey way.

All the wild zebra stallions seemed equally confused by the situation. Their attempts to get close to Dazzle were constantly thwarted by Mandazi, who would chase them off before they could even make a move.

As well as all this we enjoyed cantering alongside herds of wildebeest, zebras and giraffes; with the great plains of the Masai Mara as a backdrop throughout, the spectacle was fantastic. Our ride eventually came to a peaceful end at a beautiful dam where a delicious picnic breakfast was set up for us.

This ride with ‘Horses in the Wild’ wasn’t just about the beautiful plains game or the exciting canters. It was about the bond between Mandazi the donkey and Dazzle the zebra, and how their unexpected friendship brought a whole new level of joy to our ride. We couldn’t have asked for a more unique or entertaining experience, and the memory of Mandazi’s protective antics will forever bring a smile to our faces, documented here in an animated video on our instagram.

Earlier in September I was honored to support the Australia’s Children’s Cancer Institute by donating a safari for their live auction at the Diamond Ball in Sydney.

As with so many of us, I’ve had friends deeply impacted by children’s cancer, so it felt especially meaningful for me to support the cause. Watching it raise $30,000 AUD on the night, making it the second highest bid, was absolutely incredible.

Together, we helped contribute to the event’s impressive $2 million AUD raised for the cutting edge work the Institute is leading. Supporting biomedical research alongside doctors and nurses who work daily to save lives and develop new treatment is critical. Having seen this firsthand I’m so grateful to be able to play a small part in this cause, and know I’ll be stay involved in this space.

Christened by Winston Churchill as ‘Africa’s Pearl‘, Uganda remains one of my favorite destinations.

Hiking into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest offers magical insights into the wild lives of the great apes who call it home. Invigorating treks into the forest give visitors an incredible sense of how mountain gorillas have adapted to their lush environment which highlights the importance of protecting it.

Bwindi is home to over half the 1,000 mountain gorillas (up from 300 in 1997). It’s worth noting, and celebrating, how successful our conservation efforts within tourism supports this region. Our vibrant industry has facilitated enormous opportunities for the Ugandan people at the camps and lodges, which spins off for local markets and health centres.

During our June safari, we visited the impressive Bwindi Community Hospital, a vital and inspiring presence in the region. We saw firsthand the commitment and expertise of highly skilled local guides, researchers and park rangers, who embody the spirit of Ugandan achievement. Having guided safaris in Bwindi since the late ‘90s, I’m continually impressed by the area’s extraordinary biodiversity and the ingenuity of its people.

Through the great work of Ugandan and international vets, not only gorillas, but the many primate species found there have thrived under the protection of the national park. The evocative nature of this place is so memorable with dinosaur like bird calls from the Great Blue Turaco among others, who’ve adapted to these central African forests.

The Greater Amboseli ecosystem has long been known for its abundance of elephant.

Cythnia Moss began researching this population in 1972 and we’ve learnt so much over that time. Just this year Cythnia’s project has revealed fascinating insights into elephant communication, including the discovery that elephants may use sounds to akin ‘names’ when addressing each other. Please click here to read the National Geographic article.

With its majestic backdrop of Killimanjaro, Amboseli is indeed one of the most iconic safari destinations in Africa.

Pairing this with a stay at Ol Donyo Lodge in the Chyulu Hills can be a fantastic way to include luxury in the bush.

In the Chyulu Hills, some of the last big tuskers regularly come to the drinking hole, and Ol Donyo Lodge’s ‘hide’ (pictured below) allows for some of the most incredible close-up viewings of these giants.

The lodge itself is divine, with exceptional views across the vast plains towards Kilimanjaro’s snowcaps. Quality cuisine, fine wines, plunge pools and top notch activities including hikes, horse rides, mountain biking and night game-drives make this stop an ever increasing highlight on any safari.

On recent safaris we have witnessed some incredible sightings, including the elusive striped hyena, a cheetah and an extraordinary scene of a brave lioness brought down a giraffe to feed her pride.

As the safari season kicked in this past month, I’ve had some of my best ever lion viewings. Always one the most charismatic characters of the African “big game”, lions offer everything you’d want to take away from time on safari. Their size and power, their regal beauty, and the primal energy we experience when close to one stirs some deep inner animal instinct within us. It is a raw, wild feeling of connectedness to the African bush.

At first light in the Masai Mara, we drive out from our camp along the banks of the Mara River, hippos snorting their welcome, and the sun rising over the great plains. As we emerge we find three of the finest male lions in the Mara, part of an ever larger coalition of five that dominates the northern half of the western Mara Triangle. Striding along like the jungle kings they’re known as, they run into the one species that won’t get out of their way; elephants. We then get to see who the real kings are (or queens as it happens!), as the elephant matriarch and her sisters stand firm and watch the lions meekly take a wide detour around them. What a thrill watching such an encounter with colossal wildlife!

On to the Chyulu Hills, where, twenty years ago, lions had been persecuted and severely reduced in number. In one of the great success stories of Kenyan conservation, the combined work of the Lion Guardians program and Big Life Africa have led to the rebound of lions, back to their place as an apex predator in this ecosystem. Another morning drive with stunning dawn light and we find three magnificent sub-adult males. They are not quite ready to take their place with their own pride, but old enough to have to fend for themselves and hunt their own food. Watching these future kings as they set out from the security of their natal pride makes us realize what an enormous challenge it is to enter the sometimes savagely competitive environment they call home.

And in what now has to be my grand finale to any lion tales, at our final safari location this month we witnessed a lioness stalk and take down a fully grown wildebeest. Taking place mid morning in our own private 30,000 acre Kitirua Wildlife Conservancy in Amboseli, we were observing this lioness as she digested her last meal, thinking that she and her pride mates couldn’t possibly fit any more in their bursting bellies. Yet on seeing some wildebeest move into the longer grass, that hunting instinct took over, and as she passed within meters of our safari jeep we saw that primal look come into focus in her amber lion eyes. Stalking with utter patience and stealth, this seasoned lioness was able to close in on the unsuspecting prey and take it down. It can be hard to watch nature unfold in the raw, but the ever present circle of life closed this day, and the pride’s cubs enjoyed this next meal, bringing them one day closer to successfully moving through their own tenuous journey to adulthood.

Perhaps some of the most rewarding safaris I’ve led have been those during which families are brought together in novel experiences here in Africa. Having brought up my own kids here, with so much time on safari, and seen many other youngsters immersing themselves in the great outdoors, I feel it has such wonderful effects on their developing minds. Their curiosity is immediately piqued, and they can never ask too many questions. It really is the ultimate classroom.

There is such a range of new sights, and so many exotic and wild things to smell, touch, and explore. And every day we witness the great diversity of animals feasting and chasing and swimming and sleeping – all those storybook creatures, including the colossal frames of the elephants and graceful gaits of the giraffes, to the ever-interesting dung beetles, superb butterflies, and everything in between.

Sometimes we view this from our safari car, and sometimes we experience it as we walk through the wilderness, or ride horses, or catch a train of Samburu camels. Seeing the wide-eyed joy of children riding their sturdy Ethiopian ponies alongside a herd of wild zebras or their pride when they catch a Mara River catfish on a hand line are always the best moments on a family safari – for both me and their parents! 

The personal interactions we have with Maasai and Samburu people can also have a significant impact. Our friends in the communities we visit continue to live traditionally in many ways. For kids growing up in the fast paced 21^st century, the grounding insights from time amongst such proud and noble people is as valuable as ever. And this isn’t a stand back and watch experience; kids jump right into soccer matches with the locals and learn how to throw spears and clubs in the Maasai Olympics in camp. Everyone always enjoys the singing and dancing, and we have had plenty of attempts to jump as high as the infamous Maasai warriors!

As a parent, I believe we have some special windows of time with our children, to share with them some of the wonders of our precious planet. Africa provides such a magnificent space in which to be a kid, and the impact of this kind of journey lasts a lifetime.

There is simply no place better than the Maasai Mara when it comes to wildlife observations and photography. After all of my years on safari across the African continent, nothing beats a sunrise game drive here. The thrill of lions and hyenas fighting over a kill right next to the car, the tenderness of a cheetah mum grooming the morning dew from her cubs’ fur, or the peaceful sounds of chewing and tummy grumbles as elephants graze along the grassy tracks. The chorus of birdlife provides the idyllic backdrop for all of this as well as the giraffe, zebra, eland, and gazelles that are so often in view. The Mara is a year-round paradise, with something always happening. While the annual wildebeest migration is a highlight between June and October, the carnivores are all here year-round and there are thousands and thousands of resident animals to enjoy.

I think one of the benefits of traveling on safari with me is the ability to quickly get in sync with daily rituals that most suit your interests. While I can use my experience and offer recommendations, everything is still tailored around you. Working together, from the initial planning stage to actually being out on safari, we have the most fulfilling days and get the best results, whether you want ideal photographic opportunities or just feel like relaxing amidst it all. Regardless, we always feel like we need more time in the Mara, to soak it all up and then to share our experiences back in camp by the fire each night.

A recent visit back to Lamu reminded me of how unique this place is. Relaxing into rooftop yoga before breakfast, winding through the car-less alleyways of the small Swahili town of Shela, sipping a Pimms at the infamous Peponi’s Hotel while looking out over the Indian Ocean, and enjoying a sunset cruise on one of the traditional Dhow sailing boats are just a few of the highlights of this laidback yet exotic archipelago.

What I love about Lamu is that since I first began traveling here in the mid 90s it has kept its charm and traditional atmosphere. The uniqueness of the Swahili architecture and cultural heritage brings out so much of the flavor, and my guests continue to enjoy the low key feel of the whole place. Our kids love fishing in the channel, exploring the mangroves for crabs and birds, hitching beach rides on donkeys, and meeting the alley cats that invariably cross our paths. After almost three decades it is still my first choice on the East African coast, and the perfect way to finish a safari.