A day on the Nile in Murchison Falls, Uganda
I take my guests to Murchison Falls National Park whenever I get the chance. Although this place in northwestern Uganda is not on many peoples’ radar, I find that a day on the Nile here is unlike any other day on safari.
We stay in a private mobile camp along a stretch of the Nile just upstream of Lake Albert, and below Murchison Falls – treacherous rapids and twin waterfalls of some 40 meters in height.
An early morning game drive on the north bank of the river can be spectacular. The park is a golden and green savanna full of honey-colored kob and oribi, dotted with buffalo, giraffe, ground hornbills, and patas monkeys. There are several prides of lions here, and leopards are often seen resting in the tree branches.
We spend the rest of the day on the water. Our boats are perfect for both fishing and cruising, as well as for getting close to the bottom of the falls. In the midday heat, we enjoy the river’s cool breeze as the wildlife come down to drink. We catch baitfish hiding along the water’s edge, and then put out serious lines with the hopes of catching a big Nile perch! We even fish at the bottom of the falls, and disembark for a hike up to the top to get a feeling for just how mighty the Nile really is.
Being on such big water means that the birding is exceptional here. Thousands of cormorants commute to the nearby lake each morning, kingfishers dive for food next to the boat, egrets pluck bugs from the backs of elephants as they graze on papyrus, and bee eaters feed their chicks nestled in holes in cliff banks. Drifting by these scenes closely, in silence, is incredibly relaxing.
We also have a very special viewing of one of nature’s most interesting species – the shoebill. On most birders’ bucket list of sightings, this huge bird can reach almost five feet in height and has the world’s largest bill. We were able to get quite close to one of these prehistoric-looking creatures, and even saw him successfully catch a fish!
We return to camp at dusk to enjoy drinks by the fire on the riverbank, followed by dinner in the open mess tent. We fall asleep surrounded by the sounds of the river’s nightlife, a unique chorus of hippos and frogs.